Day 25, to Altnaharra

The typically Scottish hotel where I stayed last night was fun. Every time I stay at a nice place I think that it was the best. The day began warm and sunny and, having had a breakfast of porridge, scrambled egg, tomatoes and mushrooms, I set off along the still quite busy A836. After seven miles, at Lairg, it transformed into a single track lane which was rough. The weather became progressively colder, even feeling wintry, as I continued – but it was the most beautiful ride over the moors.

At the iconic Crask Inn (which is tiny, and the only place for miles) I met up with Paul and, just outside, we saw two cyclists with the most heavily loaded bikes I have ever seen. It was actually impossible to lift the rear end of one them. They had everything with them, perhaps it would have been impossible for anyone to lift their test-your-strength bicycles. These blokes have been up and down in Devon and Cornwall on all the roughest and most hilly routes. They would pedal up anything quite undeterred and, as they were camping, they did not need to book ahead but would pitch their tents wherever they chose. Neither were particularly young, so I think them heroic.

While we talked one of them told me that they’d heard of a woman of 83 currently trying to beat the age record. I was most disappointed to hear of this other person trying to outdo me, but then it transpired that it was me that they’d heard about!

Once inside the Crask Inn we had delicious homemade leek and apple soup. It was a fascinating place and it had paintings everywhere. We spent a happy time in the Crask before going our separate ways.

I only planned to cycle down to Altnaharra, but they were going to continue another 35 miles. At Altnaharra we checked into a cosy B&B.

I am getting very used to being on the road, and I feel quite claustrophobic when I have to stop riding.

Stats

28.2 miles (865.41 miles total), 1,075ft ascent, 850ft descent